Friday, May 23, 2008

Buddhagaya "past and present"


BUDDHAGAYA - PAST AND PRESENT
Buddhagaya or Bodhgaya as is generally known is an ancient and hallowed spot on earth. Being the seat of Enlightenment of the Buddha it is the holiest of the holies for the Buddhists of the world. Situated on the banks of the river Niranjana, Buddhagaya was originally a part of the Uruvela village (presently Urail). Its geographical location is at 24o 41’ 45’’ N. Latitude and 85o 2’ 22’’ E. Longitude and is located in Bihar which again is an ancient and historical place not only due to Buddhagaya but because Bihar is equally important to the Jains, Hindus and Sikhs.
Although Buddhagaya has not attracted as much attention as the world famous Agra or Ajanta, but of late it has become a significant and interesting place due to its having longer and more complete history than almost any other place in the sub-continent. Its history supplemented by geographical, archaeological and literary sources from China, Tibet, Burma and Sri Lanka. The history of Buddhagaya is also made more interesting by the participation of some of Asia’s greatest personalities from King Asoka to Hiuen Tsang and Edwin Arnold to Anagarika Dharmapala.
The history of Buddhagaya is not merely an outline of events, or a list of doubtful dates, but it ranks high in importance from an artistic and architectural point of view. The Mahabodhi Temple — where Lord Buddha got divine light has given a place of pride to Buddhagaya in the world map, for religion and tourism is the sole surviving example of what was one a whole architectural genre. It even had an International influence, through models and plans and replicas of it which were carried throughout Asia by pilgrims and from which copies of it were reproduced. The large number of statues and stupas gives one an example of Buddhist art, but also makes it one of the richest repositories of sculpture from the Pala period.
The fame of Buddhagaya as the sacred site where the Buddha attained Sambodhi goes back to very early times giving it a religious significance. For the millions of Buddhists, it is the Navel of the Earth — the geographical centre of their faith. For it is here that Prince Siddhartha became the Buddha after attaining Enlightenment sitting under the Bodhi Tree, and it is from here the phenomenon now called Buddhism began its gentle progress to the farthest reaches of the globe. In keeping with Buddhism’s emphasis on calm detachment, Buddhagaya has never evoked in the Buddhists the intense fervour that Mecca, Benaras, Jerusalem or Amritsar have in the millions who hold these places sacred. It has, nonetheless, inspired countless pilgrims throughout the centuries to undergo hardship and danger for the blessing of just being able to walk on its sacred ground. The Buddha’s experience at Uruvela not only resulted in the location changing its name to Bodhgaya or Buddhagaya; it has also meant that this, otherwise an obscure village, has been the focus of attention for millions of pilgrims. It became very early and remains even today, the most important place of Buddhist pilgrimage. The exact place where the Buddha sat, when he was enlightened, was called Vajrasana meaning ‘Diamond Throne’. It is believed that when the universe is finally destroyed, this could be the last place to disappear and that it would be the first place to form when the universe began to re-evolve again. The Vajrasana was also, sometimes, called the Victory Throne of all the Buddha’s (Sabbabuddhanam Jayapallankam) or the Navel of the Earth (Pathavinabhi). The Vajrasana which was also called Sambodhi by King Asoka but the most widely used and also the most enduring of Buddhagaya’s names was Mahabodhi meaning ‘great enlightenment’.
Buddhagaya today is a place of attraction for the entire Buddhist world and groups of pilgrims and visitors come to visit it all the year round, some to pay their obeisance to this great edifice of veneration, whereas for some to come and see this great edifice of history.
Buddhagaya remained the cynosure of the Buddhist world upto the 13th century, thereafter due to the sudden political upheavals that took place in and out of India, activities at Buddhagaya were also interrupted and disrupted. The place was deserted and became desolate and it remained neglected and forgotten for several centuries.
But, as if by miracle, Buddhagaya, erstwhile an insignificant village, was transformed overnight for it now hums with life and bids fair to be the centre of the Buddhist world once more. History has taken a turn and once again Buddhagaya is humming with life. In the beginning, the pilgrims were only a few and far between, but there is tremendous increase in the number of pilgrims with the development of communication systems and other facilities. When this place is full of pilgrims, it is then a sight to see how they pour forth their devotion in various ways. These they do by offering pujas, circumambulating along the sacred precincts, prostrating round the main shrine, sitting in contemplation under the sacred Bodhi tree and holding meditation retreats, burning of candles and butter lamps. All these inspiring and instilling into us a little hope and a little faith, the aroma of goodwill, peace and devotion pervades the whole atmosphere. Each and every follower frequents the holy place to receive inspiration and blessings at the seat of Enlightenment of the Buddha whose Sambodhi has universal significance.

Temple Complex :
The most important place for one and all, be it the pilgrims, the visitors, the tourists or the local populace is unquestionably the ancient heritage and world famous Mahabodhi Temple, which is the biggest, but by no means the only temple at Buddhagaya. The great monument that exists today is a later structure built on the spot where once existed the Bodhi Shrine of Buddha built by King Asoka. The exact date of its construction is not available, but records and travelogues suggest that it was built sometime around the 6th-7th centuries A.D. As at present, the structure is 170 ft. high and consists of a straight pyramidal tower of nine storeys, the main structure is surmounted by a stupa-shaped dome and at the base of the main tower there rises a turret at each of the four corners, a miniature replica of the main edifice. Niches are carved into the body of the entire edifice for the placing of Buddha images and other cult images of the Mahayana pantheon.
Entering the temple inside the main shrine which is built on the very place where the Buddha attained Enlightenment, the place variously called "the victory throne of all Buddhas" (sabba buddhanam jayapallankam) or "the Navel of the Earth" (puthavinabhim). It was while seated here that "vision arose, knowledge arose, wisdom arose, understanding arose, light arose" in the Buddha that full moon night of the 6th century B.C. and where he continued to sit for seven days "experiencing the joy of liberation". The shrine on which the Buddha statue sits and the statue itself date back to the Pala period. The statue in the shrine dates back to the late 10th century A.D., is more than two meters high and shows the Buddha in the earth-touching gesture. Everyone who comes in contact with the statue is beholden with awe by the radiance it emits and when Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore saw it for the first time, it was the only time in his life when he felt the urge to bow before a statue.
At the back of the Mahabodhi Temple is the Bodhi Tree under which Lord Buddha sat meditating and attained Enlightenment. The present Bodhi Tree was planted in the 19th century when a sapling was brought from Anuradhapura in Sri Lanka, several previous trees having died or been destroyed. The present tree is more than 122 years old. This is the most important object of veneration for the Buddhists of the world. Even the Buddha himself sanctioned the use of the Bodhi Tree as an object of veneration, as a symbol of the Buddha himself. The Buddha himself was so full of gratitude towards the Bodhi Tree that on the second week after his Enlightenment the Buddha simply stood gazing at the tree in gratitude that he stood there for seven days without blinking his eyes even for a second. It is therefore no doubt that the Buddha himself was greatly in awe of the Bodhi Tree which gave him shelter in his most momentous occasion during his search for peace and emancipation.
The Buddha spent seven weeks in seven different places that are all located in the precincts of the Mahabodhi temple. The first week was under the Bodhi Tree itself and the second week he spent opposite the Bodhi Tree gazing at it which is known as the Animesalocana (the place of Unwinking Gazing). The third week he spent doing the walking meditation or Cankamana which is also a very prominent place. The fourth week was spent at the Ratanaghara on the jewel house where the Buddha spent his fourth week contemplating on the metaphysics (Abhidhamma) which was discovered here. This philosophy was based on the laws of Cause and Effect ( paticcasamuppada) and is the most important place and this shrine house was said to have been built for the Buddha by the devas. It is believed that during the course of his meditation here rays of different colours emanated from his body and the colours (blue, yellow, red, white, orange) have been used to design the Buddhist flag. The fifth week he spent under the Ajapala Nigrodha tree where he is said to have had a conversation with Brahma. The discourse given here is important, because the Buddha is said to have been the first exponent of equality in the social order discarding the caste system prevalent in the society. The sixth week he spent near the Mucalinda tank or the Lotus pond. The Buddha during the course of his stay met with a cyclonic storm and heavy rain there-after which the Naga King, Mucalinda, is said to have sheltered the Buddha from rain. The seventh week was spent by the Buddha at the foot of the Rajayatana tree, where he made his first disciples, Tapussa and Bhallika, two merchants who came here on their way to a business trip. They were the first lay disciples of the Buddha.
The complex possesses a total area of 14.3 acres. The Mahabodhi Temple alongwith its several votive stupas and statues that surround the structure on all sides including the seven places of significance has also a Meditation Park and Shantivan in its complex. The meditation-park has been developed lately keeping in mind the demand of the pilgrims who want to meditate here in the sylvan solitude and feel the positive vibrancy that this place possesses.

Buddhagaya (Present)
Buddhagaya, to be very true is a Land of Spiritualism. Had the Buddha not attained Enlightenment here, this place would have remained an obscure village named Uruwela. For this significance alone, this entire place, with the vibrancy of its positively, to erase the pollution in the minds of man has become a place of importance. Seekers of spiritual delight come in hoardes to experience that breathtaking emancipation, which the humankind thrives to attain, is in other words called Nibbana or Emancipation. Therefore, the Holiest Buddhagaya Pilgrimage stands for the time-old spiritual activity itself. Because all sacred and religious activities may be deemed to have revived in oneself a spiritual zeal. That is why the entire Buddhagaya Vihara (Temple) Complex along-with all the surroundings whether of Artistic or of the Religiostic value, every aspect herein, inspires the devotees from over the globe, for a moment, with spiritual intention or the feelings.
In the above perspectives, the Mahabodhi Mahavihara, the Maha Bodhi Society of India, the Burmese Vihara, the Chinese Temple, the Japanese Temple, the Daijokyo Buddhist Temple, the Wat Thai, the International Meditation Centre, the Bhutanese Temple, the Nepalese Temple, the Vietnamese Temple, the Tibetan Temple, the Root Institute, the Maitreya Project and the other Institutions may be considered to be the sources of all the spiritual activities at Buddhagaya.
Buddhagaya being the Land of Enlightenment can be said to be the Land of the Spiritual Enlightenment where under the Hallowed Bodhi-Tree on the Full-Moon Day of Vaisakha 2543 years ago Gautama Siddhartha attained Enlightenment. After this historic event, Gautama who came to be known as the Historic Buddha -- travelled far and wide, in the villages and the country side, to the hills and dales, traversing the entire Janapadas of those days, preaching His new found Truth which He termed as the Dhamma , which not only can purify the mind of a person for eradicating the Ego-significance positively, but also paves his way to the attainment of Peace, Love, Compassion, Brotherhood and finally, the Deliverance. And since then the Kings and the Commoners alike all thronged to this Pilgrimage, not only to offer their reverence to the most hallowed spot on earth, but also to experience the Bliss of which the Buddha and His disciples have been talking about.
The Message of the Buddhas for the spiritual upliftment are very simple and these go like—"Sabba papassa akaranam kusalassa upasampada, sacitta-pariyodapanam etam Buddhana sasanam", which means to refrain from all evils, to do good and to purify one's mind are the Teachings of the Buddhas. Thus, this very message percolates the source of spiritualism and can be said to the seed of lasting Happiness for the deliverance from all Sufferings. Since all things are mind created and mind made, it is therefore, the mind that is to be trained and controlled, to be tamed. The taming of the mind can only be achieved through the only path that took Gautama long six years to discover and this path is the vipassana or the Insight system of Meditation.
Buddhagaya is the only place which has attracted the seekers after Truth to came here in search of that eluding Peace and Happiness and in the last fifty years, i.e., after Independence much has happened in the field of spiritual activities. With the revival of Buddhism in India religious activities as well as the literary activities were given much importance. The Govt. of India under the Prime Ministership of Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru celebrated the 2500 years of Buddhism and that is when Buddhagaya received a face-lift but still the spiritual actitivities in the organised way did not take place. Only the individuals have been practising it.
But the 1960's saw the dawn of spiritual activities at Buddhagaya. From 1966 onwards Anagarika Munindra was the one to start with the Vipassana Meditation retreats at Buddhagaya at the Samanway Asharam, and thereafter, Dipa-ma, the first woman teacher also used to hold retreats. In 1970 the International Meditation Centre, Buddhagaya, was founded and came into existence. This is the first registered Vipassana Meditation Centre in India and since then forward has been imparting Vipassana Meditation without a pause. The Centre has been organising and conducting Meditation Retreats round the year. Presently, the Centre has become a premier Meditation Centre wherein aspirant meditators come from all over the globe. Shri S. N. Goenkaji also started the first meditation camp at Buddhagaya at the Samanway Ashram on 9.4.1970 and subsequently arranged meditations several times, in different centres. For the last 5 years they have constructed their centre named the Vipassana International Buddhist Meditation Centre (Dhammabodhi) around 6 km. Away from the Main Buddhagaya Vihara. The convergence of the meditators at Buddhagaya all round the year is proof enough of how Vipassana has been able to transform the minds of the people who come to Buddhagaya for spiritual regeneration. Mr. Christoper Titmus holds retreats at the Wat Thai Monastery every year organise two 10-day courses. A large number of aspirants from different parts of the world use to take part in the camps. Mr. Michael Kewley also holds retreats for the Westerners for three months starting from the month of December every year. He holds the retreats at the Govt. of Bihar hotels and also held at the Old Centre of I.M.C. before it was transferred to the Maitreya Project. The other is Mr. Andrew Cohen who also comes here in the winters and holds retreats with the Westerners. The other important annual event is the one that is done by the Antioch University Group of the United States who bring in students to Buddhagaya for 3-4 months to study comparative Buddhism and Meditation. The classes and the retreats are held at the Burmese Vihara and in the other Centres under the different teachers and scholars. This is how the Western Teachers organise meditation Retreats at Buddhagaya.
Meditation sessions also take place in the evening for one-hour everyday at the Indosam Nipponji or the Japanese Temple. The ambience and the silent atmosphere has made it an important place for the meditators who throng here. Apart from meditatiors who throng here. Apart from meditational activities, religious rites and rituals is also an important feature here. The Sri Lankans who come here in huge numbers converege at the Maha Bodhi Temple and offer prayer at the foot of the Holy Bodhi-Tree. They observe Sila and offer hand made flags and other things and eatables too. They also take part in the Sutta chanting and listen to discourses given by the Ven'ble Monks. The Sanghadana is also offered to the Monks in the respective Monasteries of the countries they belong to. The Baruas or the Bengalese Buddhists come all round the year. They come here for dual pursoses. One is to offer their sons to the Sangha for Ordination as a Novice for a short period. And the other to offer Sanghadana to the Monks. The Thais come here in large numbers and offer Pujas at the Maha Bodhi Vihara and also meditate under the Holy Bodhi-Tree. They offer huge pieces of decorative clothes to the Bodhi-Tree, which they wrap around it. On some occasions they offer Sanghadana at the Maha Bodhi Temple. The Burmese pilgrims which were very few compared to the earlier years come in large numbers specially after the treatise signed by both the Governments and the treatise signed by both the Governments and the travel rules made more simple. They also offer Puja and meditate. The Burmese and the Thais have a penchant to offer gold leaves to paint the images, the Vajrasana and the Bodhi-Tree with gold or golden colour.
The Japanese who come here in groups go straight to the Maha Bodhi Vihara to offer their prayers. It is only then that they go about their respective ways. The Japanese unlike the others have a short stay at Buddhagaya. The most noticeable and lively of all are the Taiwanese Buddhists. May be it is after a long time they are getting an opportunity to discuss religion openly which can be seen when they arrive at Buddhagaya they become very emotional. They cry, weep and beat their chests and offer their prayers in a choir and unision. They are great donors and offer to the Monks, the laities and the begars as well. While donating and offereing they become most liberal and without any stop and binding. The Tibetans who are living today in different parts of the world come here in huge numbers in the winters. His Holiness the Dalai Lama is a regular visitor here and has conducted Kalachakra Puja here. He offers prayers and discourses for his disciples and the devotees. The other Sect of the Tibetans hold a 10 day long Peace Prayer at the Maha Bodhi Temple. Buddhagaya during these periods look like a Mini Tibet. Also the 17th Karmapa has started coming here to hold meditation retreats and World Peace Prayer of the Kagyu- Karma sect.
The Great Seating Meditative postured Buddha by the Daijokyo Buddhist Temple of 80 feet high has a special at traction for the devotees and pilgrims. Sometimes the group meditators from USA, Japan etc. use to come and stay in the complex for meditation. The root in the complex for meditation. The Root Institute also maintains Meditation very off and on every year. The Maitreya Project too organizes meditation and the Project has been contemplating to install the Maitreya Buddha the highest ever in the world. Besides this, the International Meditation Centre, Buddhagaya, holds the Kathina Civara Dana or the Robe-offering Ceremony in October-November every year where Buddhists from different parts of the world converge. The ceremony is held after the Vassa Vasa or the Rainy Retreat. This is done so, to offer Robes to the Venerable Monks by the lay devotees. This ceremony is the only of its kind to be held at Buddhagaya at such a large scale.
The Thai Monastery holds prayer sessions every week, imparting training in chanting to the Buddhists of nearby villagers of Siddharthanagar (Miyabigha) who have been initiated to Buddhism.
So, Buddhagaya in the last Fifty years has become a vibrating centre of Spiritual activities and not only that- Buddhagaya has gone and grown from strength to strength in all its spheres.

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